The City of Bristol's Backyard Vineyards: Foot-Stomping Grapes in City Gardens
Each quarter of an hour or so, an older diesel-powered railway carriage pulls into a spray-painted station. Nearby, a law enforcement alarm cuts through the almost continuous traffic drone. Daily travelers rush by collapsing, ivy-draped fencing panels as storm clouds gather.
This is maybe the least likely spot you anticipate to find a well-established grape-growing plot. But one local grower has managed to four dozen established plants heavy with plump mauve berries on a rambling allotment sandwiched between a row of 1930s houses and a local rail line just north of Bristol downtown.
"I've seen people concealing heroin or whatever in the shrubbery," says Bayliss-Smith. "But you simply continue ... and keep tending to your vines."
Bayliss-Smith, 46, a documentary cameraman who also has a kombucha drinks business, is among several urban winemaker. He has pulled together a informal group of growers who make vintage from several hidden city grape gardens nestled in back gardens and allotments throughout Bristol. The project is too clandestine to have an official name so far, but the group's messaging chat is named Grape Expectations.
Urban Wine Gardens Around the World
So far, Bayliss-Smith's allotment is the sole location listed in the Urban Vineyards Association's upcoming global directory, which includes better-known urban wineries such as the eighteen hundred vines on the slopes of Paris's historic artistic district neighbourhood and over three thousand vines with views of and within the Italian city. The Italian-based non-profit association is at the vanguard of a initiative reviving urban grape cultivation in historic wine-producing nations, but has discovered them all over the world, including cities in Japan, South Asia and Central Asia.
"Grape gardens assist cities stay greener and more diverse. They protect land from development by establishing permanent, productive agricultural units inside urban environments," says the organization's leader.
Like all wines, those produced in cities are a result of the soils the vines thrive in, the vagaries of the climate and the individuals who care for the grapes. "Each vintage represents the beauty, local spirit, environment and history of a urban center," notes the president.
Mystery Polish Grapes
Back in Bristol, the grower is in a urgent timeline to harvest the grapevines he grew from a cutting abandoned in his garden by a Polish family. If the rain arrives, then the pigeons may seize their chance to feast again. "This is the mystery Eastern European variety," he says, as he removes bruised and mouldy grapes from the shimmering bunches. "The variety remains uncertain their exact classification, but they're definitely disease-resistant. Unlike noble varieties – Pinot Noir, white wine grapes and additional renowned French grapes – you don't have to treat them with chemicals ... this could be a special variety that was developed by the Eastern Bloc."
Collective Activities Throughout the City
The other members of the collective are additionally making the most of bright periods between showers of autumn rain. On the terrace with views of the city's shimmering harbour, where medieval merchant vessels once floated with casks of vintage from France and the Iberian peninsula, Katy Grant is harvesting her rondo grapes from approximately fifty vines. "I adore the aroma of the grapevines. The scent is so evocative," she says, stopping with a basket of grapes resting on her shoulder. "It recalls the fragrance of Provence when you open the car windows on holiday."
Grant, fifty-two, who has spent over 20 years working for humanitarian organizations in war-torn regions, inadvertently took over the vineyard when she returned to the United Kingdom from East Africa with her household in 2018. She experienced an strong responsibility to maintain the grapevines in the yard of their new home. "This plot has already survived three different owners," she explains. "I really like the idea of environmental care – of handing this down to future caretakers so they keep cultivating from this land."
Terraced Gardens and Natural Production
A short walk away, the remaining cultivators of the collective are hard at work on the precipitous slopes of the local river valley. Jo Scofield has established more than 150 plants situated on terraces in her expansive property, which descends towards the muddy local waterway. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she notes, gesturing towards the interwoven grape garden. "It's astonishing to them they can see rows of vines in a city street."
Currently, the filmmaker, 60, is harvesting bunches of dusty purple Rondo grapes from lines of plants slung across the hillside with the assistance of her child, her family member. Scofield, a documentary producer who has contributed to streaming service's Great National Parks series and television network's Gardeners' World, was motivated to plant grapes after seeing her neighbour's vines. She's discovered that amateurs can produce intriguing, enjoyable natural wine, which can command prices of more than £7 a glass in the increasing quantity of wine bars specialising in low-processing vintages. "It's just incredibly satisfying that you can actually create quality, traditional vintage," she says. "It is quite on trend, but really it's resurrecting an old way of producing wine."
"When I tread the grapes, the various natural microorganisms are released from the surfaces into the liquid," says the winemaker, partially submerged in a container of tiny stems, seeds and crimson juice. "That's how vintages were historically produced, but industrial wineries introduce preservatives to kill the wild yeast and subsequently add a commercially produced culture."
Challenging Environments and Inventive Approaches
In the immediate vicinity sprightly retiree Bob Reeve, who inspired his neighbor to plant her vines, has gathered his companions to pick white wine varieties from the 100 plants he has laid out neatly across two terraces. Reeve, a northern English physical education instructor who taught at Bristol University cultivated an interest in viticulture on annual sporting trips to France. But it is a challenge to cultivate this particular variety in the dampness of the valley, with temperature fluctuations moving through from the Bristol Channel. "I wanted to make Burgundian wines here, which is a bit bonkers," admits the retiree with a smile. "This variety is late to ripen and particularly vulnerable to mildew."
"I wanted to make European-style vintages in this environment, which is rather ambitious"
The unpredictable Bristol climate is not the only problem faced by grape cultivators. Reeve has had to erect a fence on